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Bee Hive building & a place to share howto's on equipment
 #4178  by Alfred
 20 Jul 2019, 11:35
Just doing some ekes and rebating the top rails.
I'm using a maisemore super as reference (ok - I'm copying it ;) )
There's around 1/4"of end float on the top bars.
This still maintains single beespace twixt frame sides and walls but it seems a bit much.
Why would they do that?
 #4179  by AdamD
 20 Jul 2019, 13:29
I recall end-float is the end-to-end travel of a crank shaft! In the case of a hive, the extra space will allow you to get frames out and in again after some propolis is deposited on the spacers. I believe that 'metal ends' as they were once, were at a 38 mm spacing and the hoffman spacing is 35 mm (I won't convert them to old money - imperial) So a BS brood box will hold 11 frames at 38 mm with metal ends and it holds 12 frames, with a little end-float, at 35 mm.
Does this answer your question?
 #4180  by Patrick
 20 Jul 2019, 17:44
By end float on the top bar are you meaning lengthwise? As Adam says this space often has propolis spludged on them. If it is too tight then the combs can be a pain to lifts out if heavily propolised. The end float gap allows the square ended top bar to be laterally moved sideways at one end with the hive tool, breaking the propolis bond at the other. If it was a snugger fit I suspect that might be less easy. It’s hard enough as is.
 #4188  by Alfred
 21 Jul 2019, 06:49
No ,the rebate for the frame lugs to sit in.
The area between the metal runner and the inside surface of the box wall
If it were any wider,the frame could be pushed too close to either end and a worker bee would not pass or get mashed between the frame side bar and the end wall.
As it is,a drone or maybe a queen could be squished when moving a frame.
This super is a second and came with one of the lower rails in pine.Thats the only difference I could see up till now.
Looking at another maisemore box ,I see the rebate is narrower,so they've probably cut it too wide on this batch.