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  • Tips on dealing with wasps

  • General Q&A, Bee chat and only Bee chat please
General Q&A, Bee chat and only Bee chat please
 #110  by Zombee
 25 Jul 2018, 12:06
I started beekeeping earlier this year. I set a second hive up a week ago and inspected for the first time this week. There were obvious signs that the new hive has attracted the interest of wasps, and I counted (and I'm sorry to say squashed) 7-8 of them as they attacked the bees. The only difference between the first and second hive, is that the second hive didn't have an inspection tray inserted under the open mesh floor. I have put a tray in now, but wondered if any experienced beekeepers could offer any further advice in dealing with the wasps in a way that won't harm the bees?

I have seen reference to various wasp traps, but don't know how effective they are. I am also curious to know if Apishield is a good option? I haven't been able to find anyone who has used one, or any helpful reviews. Any informed advice would be very welcome!
 #113  by Patrick
 25 Jul 2018, 16:46
Hi Zombee (like it!) and welcome to the Forum.

Bad luck, happens to most of us sooner or later. The issue is how far they have got a hold so far.

The easiest course is prevention and that means small entrances all year round. The standard full entrance on a National is way more than most full colonies would either choose or need and leaves the guard bees an almost impossible job to defend. it probably dates from a time when most colonies were on solid floors and was to provide "ventilation" - in practice I suspect it was not necessary then either, Most of my floors have built in entrances only maybe 3cm wide and 1cm deep all year. It means the entrances are easily defended and if there is a slight crowd at the entrance sometimes, all the better to deter robbing bees and chancer wasps. You can use pieces of cut down frame or scrap timber to block most of it off - I have temporary fixes which have been in place years!

If they have already got in and are being ignored by guard bees then it is a lot trickier because the guard bees have probably been killed or given up and the wasps have acquired some colony scent and are coming or going as they please. I would still restrict the entrance to a single bee space the size of a pencil maybe to really make incursions difficult and if they are still going in and out, then I have heard that a sheet of glass leant against the front of the hive or a short tunnel fitted can baffle the wasps but the bees work out. Or you may be able to temporarily house the hive over 3 miles away until the local wasps have subsided - but do put preventative measures on the second hive, in case they just switch to the next victim.

Truth is poorly defended small hives and nucs are particularly vulnerable and a large healthy colony with a realistically sized entrance should not usually have a problem. Feral colonies often naturally close up excessively large entrances with propolis (apparently the word propolis comes from the Greek "walls of the city"), though I only had it significantly happen once on a hive, before I deliberately closed them all right down.

This is probably controversial but I have never used wasp traps against common wasps and since fitting small entrances all year round have not lost a colony to wasps so have not been tempted to, even though most of my colonies are in orchards full of wasps. I don't think they work. Wasps have their role and trapping them in their thousands, when that is not the answer, is just be punitive and the significant by-catch of other insects unjustifiable.

The likely arrival of Asian Hornet may require me to change my take on it.

Other views are available. Best of luck and let us know how you get on, you will not be alone.
 #176  by Zombee
 02 Aug 2018, 17:32
Many thanks for the helpful advice. On a follow up visit to our apiary we found little if any sign of wasp activity around the hives, and the bee entrances on both hives were thronging with bees. All seems to be in order, for now, and we haven't deployed any wasp traps, although we have them in our toolkit now, just in case. Thanks again.
 #177  by thewoodgatherer
 02 Aug 2018, 18:09
I think this brings home the advantage of some defensiveness in our colonies, the stronger of my ones given a small entrance to defend puts up and admirable defence against the current wasp onslaught.I doubt anyone wants to keep Africanised bees but a good level of defence instinct has got to be the way to go.
 #178  by Patrick
 02 Aug 2018, 19:44
It’s an interesting one Woodgatherer - welcome to the Forum by the way - I have sympathy for that view too.

I don’t mind if bees are defensive i.e. respond positively to clumsy handling or lack of care, I don’t like colonies that are actively aggressive i.e. come out to get you or follow you after inspections.

Most people don’t make the distinction but I think there is a difference in degree. Unfortunately a lot of beekeepers response to aggressive colonies is simply to avoid them and not do inspections etc when they really need to be managed to resolve the temperament issue.

It’s about striking a balance and let’s face it, colonies can vary during a season as well. Wasps have really become apparent round here now but no issues (so far)...
 #337  by nealh
 19 Aug 2018, 09:18
In the 11 years of keeping I have never encountered major wasp issues, always a few milling around on the ground underneath, where they pick up feed on old tired bees.
Strong hives can easily fend for themselves I find and nucs have a small 25 x 9mm entrance which they can easily defend.
I never disguard any food or leave open suppers during inspection and always cover them.