This year I delayed the start of thymol varroa treatment for nucs as we were expecting very high temperatures however I like to get them treated over August so they are (nearly) varroa free in September when the winter bees are being produced so these bees should have a low level of the viruses vectored by varroa.
For thymol treatments, I used to buy Apiguard by the bucket rather than in single pouches as it was cheaper and now tend to use Apilife Var instead of Apiguard as I don't have to use an eke with the thin 'biscuits' of Apilife Var. (Although some of my crown-boards have a deeper rim on one side to give more space if I flip the crown-boards over).
With an insulated hive, irrespective of the outside temperature, the inside temperature of it - especially if any thymol is near the brood - will be quite high in any case so I wonder how poor thymol is when it's getting cooler in the autumn?
For thymol treatments, I used to buy Apiguard by the bucket rather than in single pouches as it was cheaper and now tend to use Apilife Var instead of Apiguard as I don't have to use an eke with the thin 'biscuits' of Apilife Var. (Although some of my crown-boards have a deeper rim on one side to give more space if I flip the crown-boards over).
With an insulated hive, irrespective of the outside temperature, the inside temperature of it - especially if any thymol is near the brood - will be quite high in any case so I wonder how poor thymol is when it's getting cooler in the autumn?
May your bees read the same books as you do.