Poly: cheap, insulated, light, non recyclable, short life, blows away in strong winds, can't be "flamed", damaged by hive tools,
Cedar: expensive, lighter than pine, long lasting
Pine: cheaper than cedar, heavier than cedar and not as long lasting
Wood can be flamed and recycled and also looks nicer.
You pays your money and takes your choice. I have used all three and even plywood. For looks cedar is always going to be best so if you have deep pockets buy good quality cedar.
Because of its insulating properties, poly is probably best for Nationals and other single walled hives but with WBCs the insulation can go between the lifts and boxes so they can be made of decent wood for the lifts and plywood for the boxes. Since they are often painted, pine will do although the lifts are heavier.
British Beekeepers Association Official Forum
Poly hive vs cedar vs pine
- General Q&A, Bee chat and only Bee chat please
Define short lifeJim Norfolk wrote: ↑23 Feb 2019, 13:48Poly: cheap, insulated, light, non recyclable, short life, blows away in strong winds, can't be "flamed", damaged by hive tools,
....I have poly boxes that are 30+ years old and still going strong (Swienty).You most certainly would not want to flame poly, instead you spray it with mild bleach and wash off.
Personally I think aesthetics plays a major part in peoples choices. Why else have a WBC which is awkward to examine and a bugger if you are migratory beekeeper....but looks excellent at the bottom of the garden.
Some hate the Abelo yellow and Blue hives, yet my wife really likes the splash of colour they bring to the garden, particularly in winter.
If the bees had choices they would go for warm and insulated, like their tree nests, about the size of a langstroth brood box...
my bees seem to do best in poly. Consistenly come out of winter stronger thus build up quicker.
Let me never fall into the vulgar mistake of dreaming that I am persecuted whenever I am contradicted - Ralph Waldo Emerson
Nigel you obviously look after your poly hives.
What is awkward about inspecting WBCs? The frame size is the same as a National and you have the added benefit of lifts to sit any boxes on. The boxes are also that little bit lighter to handle.
I do agree they are not for migratory beekeeping but then that is not something that I seek to do. There appears to be more than enough forage within range and I would rather let the bees do the travelling.
What is awkward about inspecting WBCs? The frame size is the same as a National and you have the added benefit of lifts to sit any boxes on. The boxes are also that little bit lighter to handle.
I do agree they are not for migratory beekeeping but then that is not something that I seek to do. There appears to be more than enough forage within range and I would rather let the bees do the travelling.
Nope, they are well abused. Yes they dent, but then I have many wooden supers/brood boxes that require gaffa tape to seal them as they have bits chipped out forming new bee exits/entrances.
By awkward I mean the faff of removing the outer bits before examining the inner bits.
Not a major problem for a 3-4 hive owner, but for someone with 20+ hives ....
I agree with 20 hives you would probably need to move 60 lifts during inspecting. Then put them back again. I am sure as the number of hives increases, the extra energy expended by the beekeeper would eventully reach a level which could not be sustained. Trouble is my maths isn't good enough to do the calculations. On the other hand some beekeepers may be genetically better at moving lifts so could manage more hives. 
Abelo poly are :
1. ready assembled
2. ready painted
3. Fit with my other national kit.
1. ready assembled
2. ready painted
3. Fit with my other national kit.
